2011/06/13

[Los Angeles] [Japanese] Wakasan - 次等食材一等價位居酒屋 (地雷)

通常我在寫一些有關於地雷餐廳的文章時, 我絕對不會只是因為單純的個人因素來批評那間餐廳. 反之, 我會花更多心思去思考這間餐廳出問題的環節在哪, 他們餐廳的到底值不值得他們的高價位. 像這一間Wakasan-chi 餐廳就是一個很典型的地雷餐廳的例子. 高單價卻得不到對等的餐飲品質, 而且餐飲的問題絕對不是一次的偶發性事故, 可以從他們提供的餐飲看出來這些問題是已經存在許久. 吃完了以後反而不會有滿足感, 而是有一種受騙上當的感覺.
這間餐廳本來是只有提供晚餐, 而且是採取Omakase style (價位每年都在漲, 可是菜色/口感一點改進都沒有, 還是使用了一般便宜的食材/或者是大量進貨的工廠貨), 自2011年開始, 餐廳開始販賣午間套餐, 還有提供一天六份的限量便當 (Limited Lunch Set, Wednesday to Saturday Only). 我們這次就提前預訂了他們的限量便當.
一般的lunch menu, 與我喜愛的Torafuku價錢差不多, 可是餐點種類卻沒那麼豐富.
Green Salad and Sea Algae - 今天災難的首部曲就由那過酸的沙拉醬揭開了序幕. 一間自視甚高的餐廳居然連沙拉醬都不是自製的. 雖然用帶有酸味的菜開胃是很常見的事情, 可是那近乎於生飲白醋般的沙拉醬再加上用醋拌過的海藻, 不但沒有加分, 反而讓我的腎上腺素與胃酸加速分泌. 這個效果跟吃完酸梅馬上再來一杯檸檬汁一樣的道理 - 酸上加酸.
Limited Lunch Bento Set (松花堂便當). 便當盒四四方方宛如一個黑色盒子, 打開來後卻有包羅萬象的豐富菜色. 這份便當的菜色不負其名, 每樣菜色都可以算是獨立單點的菜色縮水版, 不會因貨就價, 不過他們菜色的水準真的是讓人不敢領教, 難吃的程度足以砸毀他們的招牌. (點小圖看大圖)

味增湯也是同類型餐廳中分量最小 (請看圖, 約只有半碗滿), 最鹹的. 喝不出來高湯該有的鮮美, 也沒有味增獨特的香氣, 此外, 他們的豆腐切得太小塊, 毫無誠意. 整份便當唯一能誇獎的就是他們買的現成醃蘿蔔還有可以續碗的小魚白飯. 不過他們的白飯嚴格說起來也沒有煮的很好, 比一般家用的米還差了一些.
刺身 - Katso/鰹魚/Seared Bonito - 今天難吃二部曲就由他們的生魚片開始. 現在是鰹魚的季節, 不過很不幸的是, 今天的鰹魚的肉質並沒有想像中的美味. 一般來說, 初夏的鰹魚沿著黑潮北上到日本統稱為"初鰹", 口感比一般魚類扎實但有帶有淡雅的油脂. 這裡的鰹魚生魚片彷彿是擺了好幾天的次級貨,趕著在銷毀前先來摧殘消費者的味蕾. 鰹魚肉利用了燒霜法處理, 可是魚肉並沒有一般新鮮的鰹魚那種充滿著狂野的暗紅色, 反而看起來沒有光澤. 過酸的醬汁配上了淡而無味的魚肉, 甚是無趣.

燒物 - 鯖魚鹽燒佐玉子燒 (Grilled Mackerel with Tamagoyaki) - 既鹹且腥的鯖魚讓人難以下嚥. 鯖魚一般來說比較容易有腥味, 可是腥也要有一個讓人能忍受的程度, 廚師的嗅覺失靈了嗎 ?還是他們像一些黑心商家一樣只顧著賺錢罔顧了料理人該有的堅持? 一個再簡單也不過的燒魚料理居然可以處理的這麼糟糕. 連續兩道魚料理都如此的腥, 讓我不禁懷疑老闆跟廉價的魚公司進一些即將要被丟棄的漁獲, 要不就是他們店裡擺設漁獲的冰箱壞掉了所以魚類無法保鮮. 這麼腥的魚, 可能拿給貓吃貓都會猶豫.
他們的玉子燒也是一絕 - 再吃其他幾道菜的時候我深深地覺得老闆因該對重鹹重酸特別有感情, 可是他們自製玉子燒做出來了層次感, 但口感並沒有該有的鮮嫩帶汁. 沒有一般玉子燒的甜味, 反而完全沒有味道, 令人不解他是刻意還是不小心的失誤? (一下子大鹹, 一下子大酸, 廚師是否發現需要幾道沒味道的菜餚來均衡這些菜的口味總平均?)

炸物 - 鮮蝦炸春捲佐綠茶鹽 (Homemade Shrimp Eggroll with Green Tea Salt) - 結實的蝦仁炸到酥脆沾綠茶鹽使用, 是今天便當中最好吃的單點.
煮物 - 繼兩道難吃的魚料理之後, 今天午餐的高潮就落在他們的煮物. 淡而無味的煮南瓜與波菜都沒有那帶有土味的蝦子 (長這麼大第一次吃到帶有土味的蝦 = 原來土料理指的就是如此?), 不過這些菜餚帶給我的的驚嚇都沒有那煮過頭卻沒有入味的章魚讓人印象深刻. 一般我們吃的章魚通常不是當作生魚片要不然就是煮過入味享用. 這裡的章魚煮到口感吃起來像是煮過的芋頭一般粉粉的, 可是卻又淡而無味. 吃到這裡的時候, 令我有衝動想把這份便當給退掉, 完全沒有吃的價值. (請問廚師在煮好菜的時候難道都沒有試菜就給客人吃了? 還是說想要節省成本就隨便上菜? 這種煮物一定是要事先準備好, 難道廚師認為每一個客人都這麼好欺騙??)

人對食物的感覺本來就是一項非常主觀的意見, 可是很少見的是我們四份便當吃完一致通過這間店可以列入地雷餐廳. 除了這次失敗的午餐外, 我之前吃的晚餐也是十分的糟糕. 有些餐廳雖然不好吃, 可是有他們存在的價值 (像是地點方便, 便宜又大碗等原因). 這一間餐廳的難吃程度不僅不推薦, 我也不認為的Waka San對餐點的誠意能值得我來再次品嘗.


Whenever I give 1 or 2 stars to the restaurant, there have to be something more than "I don't like it" to give such a low rating.

I came here for both dinner and lunch tasting. After comparing both lunch and dinner experiences, I can conclude that the bad taste of this place "does not happen very often, you perhaps came on the wrong day". Its just simply awful, my parties were all left disappointed for the price/food quality ratio. Here is my review for both lunch and dinner.

Now the restaurant opened for lunch and introduced a limited Omakase set lunch (6 sets per day, available from Wed to Sat) which consists four mini courses in a bento. Along with rice and miso soup and salad.

First: The salad dressing were overly salty/sour. I much preferred other brand's bulk salad dressing then their's (Which makes me really miss Hirose's homemade salad dressing) The seaweed appetiter was bit sour but acceptable. Then the miso soup came, which was about 30% smaller than average restaurant's serving size (the bowl is only 50% filled). The tofu were diced very small and it does taste like those vacuum packed tofu and the soup was overly SALTY as well. I like salty food, I can drink whole ramen bowl's broth yet their miso soup is VERY SALTY. They should add more Daishi in it to correct the problem. Its fine that they only filled 1/2 bowl of the soup because it was too difficult for me to drink it all anyway.

Second: Bento: The limited bento come with four different sides. Varies from stewed dish, raw dish, fried dish, and a grilled dish. 1) The stewed dish consists of cooked vegetable and cooked octopus. Wow, we were so amazed by the chef's work to made the octopus overly soft, its literally eating an cooked taro. Sticky and mushy, speechless. The shrimp on top of it got this really nasty "soil like taste among all 4 bentos. Big no no! 2) Raw dish - Seared bonito with ponzu sauce. It's a cheap fish that mainly used as the flakes we see on top of the tofu and other Japanese dishes. It was not fishy, but the taste was rather bland, and it was overly powered by the ponzu sauce. (One thing that I realized that restaurants don't use very fresh ingredients tend to over-use the sauce to cover the dishes). 3) Fried dish- homemade shrimp egg roll. This was the best dish among the four, no major faults. 4) Grilled Mackerel with tamagoyaki (cooked egg). Fish was rather small in portion, and very salty. Again, I had to pass on this dish because of the fishyness of the fish and the egg was so plain and tasteless, usually chef puts Japanese cooked wine and other seasoning to enhance the flavor, however, in here, its not existent.

For dinner, is called "Omakase" Style (as of Feb 2011, its $45 at least to start). For the price, you will get several dishes based on today's availability/seasonal ingredients. For $45, I seriously think they can offer better than what I received(and I do not believe I came here on a BAD day, a restaurant should not be tolerated for having a BAD day at all to its customers). Some dishes were just plain tofu with fish flakes and spinach/sesame count as an individual dishes. Fish qualities were quite sub-par too. The fish were lack of flavor, lack of fat so they have to use lots, I meant LOTS of sauces to cover up the fishy-ness of the meat. For similar prices, I can eat much better food at a la carte restaurant, or even at some medium/high range sushi joint. What a total disappointment!

I really think this place used the average at the best produces while charging at premium prices due to the location and limited competitions in the area. My parties and I all agreed and felt this is a total rip-off for the price/food quality ratio. It is a total hype. I know some Japanese people reference this restaurant as the "Best Japanese restaurant in LA". In my opinion, we all have our preference towards our food, some have high standards toward the food and some can get satisfied easily as long as he/she is full. For people like me who lives/grew up in LA, I can't even say it with confidence that I know "THE BEST" restaurants in LA because there are simply too many restaurants to try out for. However, whenever here is a bad restaurants. I certainly would voice my opinions and share with others via yelp so others will not have the bad dining experience as I did.

Wakasan

1929 Westwood Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90025
(310) 446-5241

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